Roofs in San Luis Potosi city.

Pen, ink and watercolor on Handbook Journal 8.25" x 5.5"

This is my last week in Mexico this winter, family gatherings are happening that keep me off track from sketching. This morning I had a break. This view is so different from what I've been sketching but equally interesting. It is a gearshift from old colonial cities to minimalist suburbia. It is so common to see antenna dishes, water containers and butane gas tanks on roofs of houses in Mexico. There are also many solar panels and solar water heaters that are already installed in many of them. It is still sunny and very, almost unbearable hot weather. I have mix emotions about returning to cooler weather back at home, but it's time.

At last, San Miguel de Allende

Pencil and watercolor on Moleskine 3.5" x 5.5 "

As I mentioned in my last post, there was a challenge that I've been postponing. The interior of the stone dome in La Gruta Spa is very steamy due to the thermal water. While I crossed the pool to reach the entrance to the grotto in chest high water with my arms up holding my sketching gear and non waterproof smart phone, I had to deal with so many pairs of bathers' eyes looking at me. I could see their faces wondering what is this woman doing. 

Pen, ink and watercolor on Handbook 8.25" x 5.5"

Once inside the grotto, I realized sketching was more difficult than I thought. The paper of the whole sketchbook was saggy, it started to buckle and the waves of the water were constantly challenging my balance. I put my phone on my shoulder under my bathing suit strap and my small sketching gear bag on the other shoulder. 10 minutes was the most I could handle sketching under those conditions. I got the proportions of big shapes in pencil, I added a little bit of paint to indicate the lighted and shaded areas guessing the colors of my unfamiliar newest palette, big mistake, I couldn't see the colors because of the darkness. Once outside I added detail and more watercolor. 

Well, I did it, I took it out of my chest not with the best results, but I did it. Now the 3 sketches of La Gruta Spa are together in this post. Boom! Done!

Pen, ink and watercolor on Handbook 5.5" x 8.25"

The site that was in my list to do, San Miguel de Allende

Pen, ink and watercolor on Handbook Journal 8" x 8"

Never I have sketched early before breakfast, but this site was in my list to sketch before the afternoon heat of San Miguel. This view is so beautiful! When we came to San Miguel 3 years ago and stayed in South of town, I saw this view many times, but never sketched it. I thought if I don't sketch it after my 3rd visit, (actually 4th but it doesn't count, since it lasted only 2 days, yeah I know this is totally irrelevant for you) I knew I would regret it if I didn't. So here it is. Boom! Done! Tomorrow I'll try to sketch another site that will be challenging, I'll tell you about it in my next post either I succeed or not.

An old pal, San Miguel de Allende

Pen, ink and watercolor on Arches cold press paper 8" x 16"

Of the many churches in San Miguel de Allende, there's one, the Temple of Purisma Concepcion, which has a metal plate on its wall that shows how old it is, over 500 years. In the temple’s front yard there's a couple of trees that you cannot avoid to see. The size of these trees is majestic. I think they can be as old as the temple is. These trees developed their beauty over cen.tu.ries. I came back to sketch one of them. It provided the shade that I was so hoping for. The path my eyes ran through the trunk and every single one of the branches made me admire consciously the beauty of this old pal. The grey purple of the tree and the shady yellow of the wall complement each other beautifully. Not all the times you use your artistic license, sometimes the right colors are there, just in front of you.  

Corner of Correo St. and Murillo St; San Miguel de Allende

Pen, ink and watercolor on Arches Cold Press 8" x 16"

The row of houses in the streets of San Miguel de Allende are absolutely beautiful. The earthy colors make your feel warm. The stone frames of windows and doors remain original size in many houses, people used to be smaller generations ago. The roofs are decorated with rows of pots that also help preventing people from falling in the streets, you see, even the roof of the houses are used now as terraces to enjoy exteriors and the sun. The ground in this street was rebuilt with flat stones to replace the cobblestones, so dangerous for ankles of visitors who are not used to the old roads. I sketched this view on location in ink. Nobody was waiting for me, so I took my time. Also, more people than usual stopped to ask questions even to browse the sketchbook I was working on (big mistake, I should bring another sketchbook with me to show people, just a small one) I was caught in a long texting conversation with my sister and finally I spent time taking photos for the workshop I'm teaching this summer in Chicago. 

I watercolor it in my mini studio. I didn't know what to do with the cars, at the end I muted them, I wanted the carnival of colors of the houses to stick out. I think that the flat sky, the bright colors of the houses and the pattern of the ground made in slight colors with the help of frisket liquid complement each other very well. At the end I added a woman and a girl, to humanize the sketch. Boom! 

My name is Cozcacuauziuatl

Pen, ink and watercolor on Moleskine 3.5" x 5.5"

Cozca * cuauh * zihuatl

Necklace * eagle * woman

According to the Codex Aubin Tonalamatl, an Aztec pictorial codex used by Mexicas priests, wizards and shamans back in the days of the Great City of Tenochtitlan, Cozcacuauziuatl is my Aztec name.
The person who read my name in the streets of San Miguel de Allende was kind to translate it as Great Woman of Necklace's Eagle. Yes, I said kind, I felt flattered, but later I found out what he didn't want to say, that my Aztec name means Vulture!  

I felt then the opposite, I felt offended. Vultures are not popular or admired as the eagles. But then, after reading about vultures, a non-killer bird, and what those ugly birds meant for the Aztecs, I kind of like them, against popular perception. In reality I did some research because I wanted to convince myself there's something good in being born as a vulture, my Aztec name. It means long life, strong, without disease, tall, bold (hairless), discreet, of great advise and authority, wise, quiet, prudent, rethoric, friendly and inclined to teaching and preach, good to give advice and rebuke the bad, inclined to gather disciples to whom to teach.

Next is what the shaman said to me. Words in green mean I agree, words in red not so much.

He said, and I quote:
"You are going to live a long life (!) You want everything well organized and perfect, if it is not exact you don't accept it. You were born in the symbol of the dog, dog is best friend of man, the most faithful, you are very loyal to your friends so you are capable of give up your life for your friends (sorry friends not true). You could dedicate yourself to do research or teaching, you could be an excellent guide, or pedagogue or a good teacher, you were born to guide others. As a necklace's eagle (vulture) you are going to travel to many places you haven't even remotely thought. You like travelling, adventure, thrill and danger. Having been born as a necklace's eagle you like vintage and old. For you everything is useful, nothing goes to waste (kind of true, here links of recycle projects in this blog teddy bear and sketchbook). A recycling business can give you  lot of money, you could dedicate yourself to ecology and environmentalism. As necklace's eagle you can see details not others see because you have a panoramic view of things, the necklace's eagle sees from above, common animals have an horizontal view. You are a good philosopher, good psychologist, very good therapist, you can heal someone just by giving a massage (!). Because you were born under dog, you first smell food, you don't judge by flavor, you have a good sense of smell, you are very intuitive, you presage things before things happen. You are happy in museums, where there are antiques"

This shaman made an impression on me, this post is proof of it. Whether or not it's true, it was fun for an evening in San Miguel de Allende.

USk San Miguel de Allende in Canal St.

Sakura Identipen Dual Markers and watercolor on Hanbook Journal 5.25" x 8.25"

The Urban Sketchers of San Miguel de Allende met in Canal Street yesterday. I joined the group. It's fun to chat to people from different cities both residents and visitors. I was humble by the many talented artists in this group, many of them are instructors. This is Canal Street and that tower is the Temple of La Purisima Concepcion. I hope I'll make it next week which it will be my last week in San Miguel de Allende.

El Charco del Ingenio, Botanical Garden

Sakura IDentipen Dual marker, watercolor on Watercolor Hand.Book Journal 5.25" x 8.25"

We visited El Charco del Ingenio. My husband and I made a previous visit last week to explore it but I came back  today exclusively to sketch the Botanical Garden. Mom died two years ago. She loved outdoors. She loved gardens and had a green thumb. Today was the perfect day to feel her closer to me. 

The cactus in the sketch above is known colloquially as golden barrel or mother-in-law's seat, go figure. The cactus on the right is younger and it was made on location while the one on the left obviously older, I spotted on my way out of the place. It was getting too hot to sketch it so it was done indoors. I used two markers Sakura IDenti.Pen Dual, that I got in the city of Morelia last January, just for a change. I got brown and green knowing these two colors will come handy for my sketches of Mexico.

Pencil and watercolor on Moleskine Watercolour Notebook double 3.5" x 5.5"

I came across with this landscape view above, the garden of the senses. I wanted to show what this place is about and how it looks like, so a landscape format is excellent for this purpose. I'm also exercising for the Urban Sketchers workshop I'll teach this June in Chicago, Join us! 
I did small sketches in my Moleskine 3.5" x 5.5". I knew it would be a sunny and hot day, so if you want to finish, go small. The next sketch is what they call labyrinth of aromas. In our previous visit, my husband and I touched, rubbed and smelled almost all the plants! That's what this little but marvelous garden is for, to awaken your senses. That's why I sketched it.

Pencil and watercolor on Moleskine Watercolour Notebook double 3.5" x 5.5"

Lastly, I made a stop a La Plaza de los Cuatro Vientos, or the Plaza of the Four Winds where there's a scenic overlook. To the right of the sketch is the damn and to the left the canyon. And a little above the canyon you can see part of the town San Miguel de Allende.

Pencil and watercolor on Moleskine Watercolour Notebook double 3.5" x 5.5"

Mom would be very happy to be here. She would be proud of me. Love you mom.

Today is one of those mornings....

Koh-i-noor magic pencil and watercolor on Leuchttrum1917  double 5.25'' x 8.25"

The light of San Miguel de Allende

Pen, ink and watercolor on Arches Cold Press 8' x 16"

This property was built in the mid 1940's. It used to be in the edge of town back then and now it's surrounded by new condominium buildings. Can you replace the white background of buildings stacked on top of each on the top left of this sketch with top green trees? I asked the owner during a chat we had, while I sketching this view, what she thought about this change. She told me it didn't bothered her that San Miguel de Allende was changing. Actually she likes it. She said the town was boring before, she used to hang out with same group of people, now it is different. She goes along with the changes in town, besides there's nothing she could do to stop it if she wanted. The only thing that she doesn't like is that view, the top buildings in the top left of this sketch. She doesn't like the lack of privacy, people looking her property and her guests. Back to the sketch, there’s no building in white in reality, not one. They are painted in earthy colors but I left them white because I didn't want anything competing with the peach color of this terrace. I tried to reproduce the particular peachy color of the walls with all my watercolor knowledge but it was fruitless (not upon intended). My third mixing color try, turned out orange-ish. I used it. Color doesn't matter anyway. I tried to paint the warmth of the afternoons in San Miguel. Someone asked me how to make a sketch appear like a daylight. It just came to me now how to explain it in words: the darker the shade the brighter the light.

Back to La Gruta Spa, San Miguel de Allende

Pen, ink and watercolor on Watercolor Handbook Journal 5.25" x 8.25"

I LOVE coming to La Gruta Spa, few minutes out of San Miguel de Allende. It's a very relaxing place, the thermal waters are so clean in the several pools and very quiet, if you come early and during weekdays. I stilI want to sketch the steamy gruta but I think it would be very hard. I won't know until I try right? Well, this time I sketched people, while my husband had a massage in the water, who you can see in the top left of this sketch. I'm not participating in the #oneweek100people2018 challenge but I sketched some bathers, just because, to not feeling out. 

Here is the sketch I did last year, so you see how one the pools looks like.

Pen, ink and watercolor on Moleskine 8.25"x 5.25"

Again, I can't tell enough how much I love this place.

A meet up with USk San Miguel de Allende

Pen, Ink and Watercolor on Watercolor Handbook Journal double 8"x 8"

As every Tusday, the Urban Sketchers of San Miguel de Allende meet at noon. The sketching sessions are shorter than I'm used to. We met at calle Umaran, and this is the view I choose. Meagan Burns, the leader of this chapter called for the photo. I didn't finished the sketch, I added some color but I finished the shades later. Cool group! I hope to meet again before I leave SMA.

Photo credit to Meagan Burns

Los Arcos of San Miguel de Allende

Pencil and watercolor on Watercolor Hanbook Journal double 8"x 8" 

Why are these arches here? Instead of google it I will tell the version of a senior woman Mrs. Lupita, the cleaning lady, a lifetime resident. I asked her why these arches are here? She told me that was the limit of a rancher's property which had a body of water for people and cattle back in the days of her mother and grandmother. The source of the body of water was the spring water coming form the upper hills. People used to come to these arches to bathe or to wash their clothes. Today, there's still possible to see the stream of water running down the hill surrounding the big rocks on the left side of this view (not sketched). On the right side of this view there are two carved holes on a wall (not sketched), covered in stucco, or concrete perhaps, where it is possible to collect free water, I guess, because it looks very clean. Mrs. Lupita told me everything was green and beautiful uphill from these arches, now it is packed with 4 or 5 stories condominiums and houses to supply the demand of visitors or new residents. San Miguel has changed.

The green studio, San Miguel de Allende

This is the little area with just a table and a chair, that has been designated as my studio in San Miguel de Allende. 

I've been following Prashant Miranda for years but also browsing his work a lot lately. His simple way to see life was a great reminder that even the simplest things that surround us are quite beautiful, drawing simple, like a kid.

The priority of my sketches is to show to the world the urban spaces that surround me but I'm forgetting to sketch little things that have meaning to me. I would like to remember that this little desk painted in a "ill" green is a color that is repeated in other furniture through out this place. I'm used to it now and actually quite like it. This may seem insignificant but if not recorded to make my memories richer it would be forgotten. 

A series of Mexican Kitchens

This is a series of Mexican kitchens I've sketched this winter. I finished the last one today in San Miguel de Allende and here they are. I cooked simple or complex meals in each one of them. It's nice to remember the ups and downs of every kitchen and nothing like a sketch to remember it.

Pencil and watercolor on Watercolor Handbook Journal 8.25" x 5.25"

Pen, ink and watercolor on Watercolor Handbook Journal 8.25" x 5.25"

Pen, ink and watercolor on Watercolor Handbook Journal 8.25" x 5.25"

Pen, ink and watercolor on Watercolor Handbook Journal 8.25" x 5.25"

Pen, ink and watercolor on Watercolor Handbook Journal 8.25" x 5.25"

As imperfect as we are, San Miguel de Allende

Pen, ink and watercolor on arches paper 8 x 16 in

The moment these women caught me sketching them, all of them put a straight face. One of them, the one on the right came to confront me so close that her face was in my face. She told me I should have asked for their permission. I calmly agreed. Then there was an awkward silence in which she realized I didn't reach for my wallet so she behaved even more aggressively. She asked me what I was going to do with my sketch, I told her it was for me. She ordered me to give it to her! I firmly refused to give up to such command, then she demanded money. At this point I lost my patience and went one to one. I do remember I said to them they had such a poor attitude towards people. I picked up my stuff, left and wished them a good day. Walking away I overheard one asked the other one, did she give you money? The other replied, no. Then another shouted at a distance, shameless! (!)

I get this people think that artists take advantage of them because they profit from their image. I understand I probably should have asked permission to sketch, but on other hand, we were all in a public space, I can sketch what I want, it wasn't a portrait. It was due to her attitude that I lost it. It was then when I realized they weren't upset because of religious or spiritual beliefs, it was because they wanted their share. It was a confrontation where we both lost.

It took me more than a week to go back to finish this sketch because it had a bad flavor, I didn't want to, I wasn't motivated. However, I tried to make the memory up with watercolor, because as imperfect as we are, imperfection is also beautiful.