Archaeological sites in Chiapas

Fineliner and watercolor on Moleskine 3.5" x 5.5"

The archaeological site of Yaxchilan is in the banks of the Usumacinta river on the Mexican side. It is only reachable by boat. The ride takes about 45 minutes. I never heard of Yaxchilan. It is so mystic. For some reason the archaeologists left the trees that grew in the city for centuries, right there in the middle of the plazas. It is different from other Mayan sites where all sort of invading vegetation was removed. As a result, hiking these sites under the blasting sun makes the experience very uncomfortable, but not in Yaxchilan. The moss that grows in the humidity and the shade of trees covers the surface of buildings and rocks, that's why is called also the green city. It is a special place known by doorway lintels and stelae with hieroglyphic text. In reality all the place is a self promotion of the last ruler Bird Jaguar, despite this, it is still a fascinating place. On my way back I sketched the long pointed boat, I wanted to remember the peculiar view, to the left Guatemala and to the right Mexico. I would barely make it to our next stop that afternoon to the small place Bonampak, known by its murals.

Fineliner and watercolor on Moleskine 3.5" x 11"

We spent a full day in Palenque, I sketched this view from the Temple of the Cross, the largest in Palenque in which it is still allowed to climb. From left to right: Temple of the Sun, Temple XIV, Temple XV, in the far center of the sketch Temple of Inscriptions or Tomb of Pakal the Great and to the far right is The Palace.

Pen & ink and watercolor on Hand Book Watercolor Journal 8" x 8"

Behind the Tomb of Pakal, out of the view in the sketch is the Temple XIII or the Tomb of the Red Queen (which it is still allowed to enter the pyramid to see the red sarcophagus). I'm mentioning this because the offerings found in this recently discovered tomb (1994) were not at the on-location Museum of Palenque which is home to this collection. They are here in San Cristobal de las Casas as a temporary exhibition, in the Museum of the Highlands of Chiapas Ex-convento de Santo Domingo. I sketched it here, before it was taken back to Palenque. I'm glad that the museum wasn't busy, so I wasn't blocking the view to a lot of people. I took my time, I even watercolor it on location.

The last day of this side trip we drove from Palenque back to San Cristobal de las Casas and stopped at two more water sites, Cascadas de Agua Azul and Misol-Ha. No sketches though. Oh well, I promise to show more sketches of San Cristobal de las Casas....or somewhere else. 

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